With a couple of weeks to spare before dressing the bird, it’s a great time to acquaint (or reacquaint) yourself with gewürztraminer, the rock star of Thanksgiving wines. What gives it rock star status? It’s the most versatile, pairing with turkey, dressing, yams and yes, even pumpkin pie.

The Thanksgiving appeal of gewürztraminer was a bit of a surprise initially, but after a decade of Press Democrat blind tastings, which paired wines with turkey and all the fixings, gewürztraminer was most often the champ.

For the uninitiated, gewürztraminer is a flamboyant dry white wine with notes of grapefruit, honeysuckle, smoke and spice. Some of the best hail from Alsace, France and Germany, but there are also fetching ones make in California.

Here are some to explore before the holiday. Consider it your dress rehearsal.

Gundlach Bundschu, 2008 Sonoma Valley Gewurztraminer, $23.

Ventana, 2008 Arroyo Seco Gewurztraminer, $18.

Chateau St. Jean, 2008 Sonoma County Gewurztraminer, $15.