Gewurztraminer is the rock star of Thanksgiving, the celebrity with the biggest personality at the table. What gives gewurztraminer rock-star-status? It works with everything – the turkey, the dressing, yams and yes, even pumpkin pie.

The Thanksgiving appeal of gewürztraminer was a bit of a surprise initially, but after a decade of Press Democrat blind tastings, which paired wines with turkey and all the fixings, gewürztraminer was most often the champ. Its versatility gave it the edge.

For the uninitiated, gewürztraminer is a flamboyant dry white wine with notes of grapefruit, honeysuckle, smoke and spice. Some of the best hail from Alsace, France and Germany, but there are also fetching ones make in California.

Here are some producers of tasty gewurztraminers to explore before the holiday. Consider it your dress rehearsal.

Gundlach Bundschu

Ventana

Chateau St. Jean

Other good turkey day wines (both white and red) include:

Domaine Perraud’s , white Burgundy

Nigel’s Gruner Veltliner

Dry Creek Vineyard’s dry Chenin Blanc

Tablas Creek Vineyard’s red Rhone blend

Jayson’s pinot noir

Davis Family Vineyards’ pinot noir

Sip in the season …